Firstly, let’s just start by saying Hobart ain’t no city. Its shops are closed on Sundays, you can get around the entire CBD in five minutes flat and it doesn’t even have a Westfield. I always thought I preferred big cities–your Bangkoks, New Yorks and, well, Sydneys. But Hobart’s small-town charm, with its village-like ‘burbs, friendly faces on the footpaths and prices that put Sydney to shame, has cured me of my addiction to the headliners of the world.

From the famous Salamanca Markets (above) to the less well-known spots around town, I’ve put together my picks on where to eat (and what to do between meals) in Hobart in two parts… stay tuned for the best cake shop in town, the festival which stops the city and the tastiest laundromat I’ve ever eaten at.

GARAGISTES, 103 Murray Street

If I could pick just one place to eat in Hobart, this would be it. With an emphasis on local, seasonal, sustainable produce and natural wines, a night out at Garagistes feels like a visit to Mr McGregor’s cool grandson’s farm. Housed in a minimalist space more industrial chic than rustic country charm, its polished-concrete floors and shared tables are packed with crowds who look like they’ve just come from the (superlative, must-see) MONA gallery. This is definitely the cool kid on the block. As for the food, it’s damned good, with plates that are designed to be shared but are simply to good to split. The menu, which eschews your standard entree, mains and desserts categories (instead, going with savoury, cheese and sweets), also does away with familiar ingredients, with buckwheat, cloves, tripe and celeriac just some of the oft-misunderstood food stuffs getting their time in the spotlight. Highlights? The incredible onion dish, which looks and sounds underwhelming, but is quite possibly the tastiest riff on the humble onion I’ve ever tasted. As for the molasses and cherry parfait, forks clashed more than once in the battle to gobble it down. Save your relationship; order two.  My iPhone photos hardly do it justice, but that’s what happens when your regular camera breaks (yes, it’s still in insurance no-mans land).

PIGEONHOLE CAFE, 93 Goulburn Street, West Hobart

Do not stop, to not pass go–head straight to Pigeonhole (and steer clear of the dodgy CBD Gloria Jeans et al) if you’re in need of a decent caffeine hit. This little all-rounder (it seats less than 20) is full of mis-matched charm and kick-arse food. By the time we arrived for a late lunch, the popular panini options (think prosciutto, basil, quince and asiag0) had completely sold out, as locals milled in and out of the kitchen, saying hello to the owners. The Greek ordered the best baked eggs I’ve ever tasted–eggs en cocotte with serrano jamon, soused onions and grana padano ($10.50)–while I opted for a warming potato, garlic and rosemary soup ($10). As we enjoyed our meal, freshly-baked baguettes were hauled from the oven and into the arms of waiting customers. It’s just that kind of place.

BATTERY POINT

Go here for a wander, stay for a snack at the stylish Jackman & McCross. Quite simply, this is my favourite area in Hobart. Just up from Salamanca Place, if ever you wanted to live out a Jane Austen fantasy, this is the place to do it. Georgian architecture, hollyhocks and romantic views certainly do all that they can to get my vote for number one most charming spot in town. Jackman & McCross’ food does not impress quite as much as it’s lovely building, but it’s a nice spot to rest your weary feet.

TRICYCLE, 77 Salamanca Place

This lo-fi treat of a cafe is a haven from the over-priced tourist traps of Salamanca Place. Tucked away in an arcade, it’s right next door to a little deli where Matthew Evans himself has set up shop with some other gourmet types (don’t miss the amazing Bruny Island cheese). With blue-grass music honky-tonking in the background and quirky touches like sugar in vintage milk bottles and old-fashioned wax straws, Tricycle is just a nice place to while away some time. But we’re here to eat, and that’s just what we do, chowing down on chili beans with avocado, feta rocket and sourdough ($13.5) and baked eggs with spiced tomatos, feta, parsley and sumac and bacon($14). Delicious.

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